KILT CONSTRUCTION

There are some basic considerations regarding construction to be made when ordering a kilt. First, you need to decide how you want the kilt pleated. Basically, there are two options: knife pleating, which is currently the most common type; and box pleating, which requires less material. The box pleat is certainly beginning to come into vogue over the last few years. Back around 1987, I tried to get a number of kilt makers to make me a box pleat kilt, but to no avail. Most did not even understand what I was talking about, while others tried to discourage my interest, telling me "no one" wore box pleats any more. Since then, I have seen more and more box pleated kilts appear at the Highland games. When in 1989 I ordered another kilt I was asked by the Scottish kilt-maker if I wanted knife pleats or box pleats! I believe in coming years the box pleats will become the norm, due mainly to the fact that tartan material has become more and more expensive and the British pound exchange rate with the dollar has been quite high. This has resulted in an extremely expensive traditional 8-9 yard knife-pleated kilt. The solution seems to be the 4-yard box-pleated kilt although we have since seen 4 and 5 yard knife pleated kilts become the norm. The cost to the kilt maker should also drop and would certainly allow them more profit.

Another consideration is whether the pleating will reflect the sett of the tartan or will be pleated to a single stripe in the tartan. The former is known as pleating to the sett, while the latter is called military pleating. Military pleating can produce a quite startling effect, depending upon the stripe selected. For instance, the Buchanan tartan can be pleated where it appears predominantly yellow in back or in a different manner to be red, or in another to even appear green!

When ordering a kilt you must ask for military pleating or you will automatically get your kilt pleated to sett. However, there are some tartans, such as the Ogilvie tartan, which just do not lend themselves to either sort of pleating. These types of tartans just have to be pleated without regard to the design.

Most kilts today come with three straps and buckles with which it is fastened around the man. Two of the straps are on the right and one is on the left. The second right-sided strap helps secure the apron, but in my opinion it is unnecessary and only serves to pull the apron to one side. One writer has his kilts made with straps reversed and I've seen kilts with four straps, ie: two on each side. I prefer to ask for only two straps, one on each side! This is a case where less is more. The sporran and the sporran belt do a fine job of holding the apron of the kilt down. I have even had the extra strap removed from my first kilt. However, some people prefer the three buckle arrangement and with your first kilt it would be better to order it this way and see how your like it since it can always be easily removed later if your so desire.

The question of how the kilt should fit is very important and is often overlooked by both new kilt wearers and those who have worn the kilt for years. There is a trend today to wear the kilt with a short or no rise. This means that the kilt is worn as the trousers are, down around the waist near the hips. None of the kilt protrudes above the beltline. This is comfortable for shorter, thin-framed men, but is unsuitable for tall or heavy-set men. Furthermore, the kilt is intended to be worn with the upper portion protruding above the beltline. In fact, the top of the kilt should rise high enough to come to the wearer's bottom ribs. For the average man, this will be a rise of one-and-one-half to two-and-one-half inches above the belt line. For very tall men it can rise as much as three to four inches above the beltline. Highland dancers and Scottish country dancer often ask for a very high rise so that when they raise their hands above their heads, tartan is still seen instead of a white shirt front. When ordering a kilt explain to the tailor how far you want the top of you kilt to rise above the belt. The tailor or kilt-maker can advise regarding fitting the kilt to your frame and body-type.

The kilt should fit snug so that it won't fall off. Straps can be tightened or loosened to accommodate the gain or loss of a few pounds. Try that with trousers! However, there are some men who are so skinny that no matter how tight they tighten the kilt straps, the kilt falls down. I can spot those men at Scottish functions because their kilts are three to four inches too long and the waist of their kilts is around their hips. If this happens to you, simply have buttons sewn in the waist and attach suspenders.

The length of the kilt is also of some importance, as you can tell from the above statement. The only rule is not so long as to drop below the middle of the knee-cap, not so short as to come more than two to three inches above the top of the knee-cap which, is really way too short in my opinion. The standard today is that the kilt should come to approximately the top of the kneecap. I prefer this length myself.

If you have great legs, flaunt them and the ladies will love it!

When ordering your first kilt the biggest mystery is where do I order from? The answer is very simple. Observe those men at events that are wearing the kilt and when you find someone wearing a kilt that you particularly find attractive, ask him where he ordered his. I'm sure that individual would be more than happy to assist you in ordering your kilt. Things to look for are pleats that lie flat and are well pieced together. Every aspect of the kilt should be sewn by hand. There are a number of good kilt makers here in the U.S. and there are many fine ones in Scotland. However, if you order from Scotland, be prepared, the duty can be quite steep.